MITSUBISHI MR992377 STEERING KNUCKLE FRONT

Product Specifications

Product quality
OEM Equivalent Grade
starstarstar
On request
bolt MOQ (Minimal order)
1 pcs
local_shipping Production time
30-45 days
package_2 Shipping Weight:
MITSUBISHI MR992377
MITSUBISHI 3870A107
MITSUBISHI 3870A108
MITSUBISHI 3870A109
MITSUBISHI 3870A110
MITSUBISHI MR992367
MITSUBISHI MR992368
MITSUBISHI MR992378
Overview & Operating Principle

The STEERING KNUCKLE FRONT is the front steering knuckle — also called the upright or stub axle carrier — the cast iron or forged aluminium structural component that simultaneously carries the front wheel bearing, mounts to the suspension's control arm and strut or upper arm, anchors the brake caliper, hosts the steering tie rod connection, and provides the steering pivot axis about which the wheel rotates when the driver turns the steering wheel. The knuckle is the central mechanical interface between five major chassis systems: the wheel and tyre — through the wheel bearing pressed into the knuckle's central bore; the suspension — through the lower ball joint or control arm bushing at the knuckle's lower attachment and the strut spindle or upper ball joint at its upper attachment; the steering — through the tie rod end ball joint that engages the knuckle's steering arm projection; the brake — through the caliper mounting bolts that bolt to machined faces on the knuckle's outboard side; and the ABS — through the wheel speed sensor mounting bore. The knuckle's geometric design — specifically the spatial position of these five attachment points relative to each other — defines the front wheel's complete kinematic specification including its caster angle, camber angle, kingpin inclination angle, steering axis offset (scrub radius), and Ackermann steering geometry, all of which are critical determinants of steering feel, straight-line stability, cornering response, and tyre wear under all operating conditions.

This unit — MITSUBISHI MR992377 — is manufactured to OEM-equivalent specifications: wheel bearing bore diameter and depth for the bearing press-fit, ball joint and strut attachment positions for the suspension geometry, tie rod end bore taper for the steering arm engagement, brake caliper mounting hole pattern and machined face flatness, ABS sensor mounting bore position and diameter, and overall casting or forging geometry are matched to the original part. Supplied as a complete knuckle assembly typically without the wheel bearing, ball joints, or sensors pre-installed. Available wholesale from 0.18 USD, MOQ 1 pcs, production lead time 30-45 days.

Steering knuckles require replacement following collision damage that bends or cracks the casting — even small deformations affect the suspension geometry sufficiently to make alignment correction impossible and produce uncorrectable tyre wear; following wheel bearing failure that has spun the outer race in the knuckle bore, enlarging the bore beyond the tolerance for a new bearing's interference fit; following ball joint pull-through where the joint taper has cracked or enlarged the knuckle's tapered bore; and following fatigue cracking at high-stress zones — typically the steering arm root or the brake caliper mounting boss — on knuckles in vehicles used for spirited driving, track use, or sustained heavy loads. A cracked or deformed knuckle is a safety-critical fault that requires immediate replacement; continuing to operate a vehicle with a damaged knuckle risks complete loss of steering or wheel separation under cornering load.

Symptoms & Diagnostics
Wheel alignment camber or caster that cannot be set within the OEM specification despite all adjustable components confirmed in correct condition — and all bushings confirmed compliant — the knuckle casting has been bent by a kerb impact or collision; even a deformation too small to be visible by eye is sufficient to shift the wheel bearing axis or the suspension attachment positions enough to push the alignment beyond the adjustable range; confirm by comparing the knuckle's key dimensional measurements against a reference knuckle from the opposite side using a calibrated suspension measurement system.
New wheel bearing that develops noise or play within a short period of installation — the bearing produces rumbling within a few thousand kilometres of fitting — the knuckle's wheel bearing bore has been enlarged by a previous spun-bearing event, and the new bearing's outer race cannot achieve the designed interference fit; the bearing's outer race spins in the oversize bore under cornering loads, generating heat and accelerating the bearing's raceway wear; measure the bore diameter precisely and compare against the OEM specification before fitting any new bearing.
Ball joint that pulls through the knuckle bore — the ball stud taper does not seat with the designed taper engagement, and the stud can be moved axially within the knuckle bore with detectable force — the knuckle's tapered ball joint bore has been deformed by a previous failed ball joint installation or by an impact load that overloaded the taper; the bore can no longer provide the wedge engagement required to retain the ball stud under cornering loads; replace the knuckle assembly — a deformed taper bore cannot be reliably repaired by machining or insert installation.
Visible crack in the knuckle casting — surface crack detected during inspection at known stress concentration points: the steering arm root, the brake caliper mounting bosses, or the lower ball joint receptacle area — any visible crack in the knuckle casting is a safety-critical fault requiring immediate replacement; cast iron knuckles fracture progressively from initial cracks under fatigue cycles; aluminium forged knuckles fracture more rapidly once cracking initiates; do not continue to operate a vehicle with a confirmed knuckle crack regardless of how small the crack appears.
Tyre wear that cannot be corrected by alignment adjustment — feathered or edge wear pattern persisting after multiple alignment corrections within the adjustable range — the knuckle's geometric reference points are no longer at their designed positions; the static alignment can be set within the adjustable range but the dynamic toe and camber under load are shifted by the deformed knuckle geometry; the tyre wear continues despite each alignment correction because the underlying geometric defect is not corrected by adjustments to the tie rod end and camber-adjustable mountings.
Brake judder or pulsation that cannot be eliminated by disc machining or replacement — the judder persists after the brake disc has been confirmed flat and within runout specification — the knuckle's brake caliper mounting face is not flat or is misaligned with the wheel bearing axis, causing the caliper to mount at an angle that produces uneven pad contact with the disc; this mounts the new disc with a small but persistent runout that the caliper translates into pad-to-disc judder; confirm by measuring the caliper mounting face flatness with a precision straightedge.
Logistics & Customs
International HS Code
8708.50
EAEU Customs Code (TN VED)
8708 50 200 0
Typical Net Weight
Country of Manufacture
China
Standard MOQ
1 pcs
Production Lead Time
30-45 days
Always verify the exact 8-digit or 10-digit subheading with your customs broker for the destination country, as tariff schedules and duty rates vary by jurisdiction.
Installation Tips
  1. Transfer the wheel speed sensor mounting clip, the brake hose bracket, and any harness routing clips from the old knuckle to the new one before installation — these small attachment features are not always supplied with replacement knuckles and are essential for correct ABS cable routing, brake hose support, and harness retention; missing or incorrectly positioned clips allow the ABS cable or brake hose to chafe against the suspension or rotating components within a short period of installation.
  2. Install the wheel bearing into the new knuckle bore using a hydraulic press with the correct driver cup before mounting the knuckle to the vehicle — the knuckle is significantly easier to support correctly on the press bed when it is off the vehicle than when it is partially attached; press the bearing to the depth specified by the OEM, confirm uniform seating around the full circumference, and install any retaining circlip or retaining plate before the knuckle is mounted to the suspension.
  3. Apply anti-seize compound to the ball joint tapers and the brake caliper mounting bolt threads before assembly — anti-seize on the ball joint taper allows the joint to be removed cleanly at the next service; anti-seize on the caliper bolt threads prevents the corrosion seizure that destroys the knuckle's threaded bosses when the caliper is removed for brake service; apply sparingly — excess anti-seize on the taper can prevent correct wedge engagement.
  4. Torque all knuckle attachment fasteners — strut bolts, ball joint nuts, tie rod end nut, hub nut, brake caliper bolts — to the OEM specification in the correct sequence — each fastener has a specified torque value that must be applied with a calibrated torque wrench; tightening sequence matters on knuckles with multiple ball joint or strut attachments — incorrect sequence pre-loads the joint in an undesigned direction; consult the vehicle service data for the correct torque values and the correct sequence before beginning assembly.
  5. Perform a four-wheel alignment immediately after knuckle replacement — knuckle replacement disturbs every suspension geometry parameter on the affected wheel: camber, caster, toe, kingpin inclination, and scrub radius; the alignment must be verified and adjusted within the available adjustment range; if any parameter is outside the adjustable range after the new knuckle is installed, the cause must be investigated — incorrect knuckle part number, hidden subframe damage, or strut tower deformation — before the vehicle is returned to service.
  6. Install the new STEERING KNUCKLE FRONT (MITSUBISHI MR992377), torque all fasteners to OEM specification, perform four-wheel alignment, clear any ABS fault codes that may have been set during the bearing or ABS cable disconnection, test ABS function at low speed on a wet or loose surface, confirm the brake pedal feels firm and the brakes operate normally, and road test confirming straight-ahead tracking and no abnormal noises before returning the vehicle to service.
Tools: hydraulic press with wheel bearing driver cups, ball joint separator, torque wrench covering the full range of knuckle fastener torques (typically 80–300 Nm), anti-seize compound, four-wheel alignment equipment, OBD-II scanner for ABS fault clearing after installation.
Frequently Asked Questions
How can a bent or damaged steering knuckle be confirmed before ordering an expensive replacement?
Three diagnostic measurements confirm knuckle damage without specialised equipment. First, compare the left and right knuckle dimensions directly — with both front wheels removed, measure from the wheel bearing centre to known reference points on each knuckle (the strut bolt centre, the lower ball joint centre, the tie rod end pinch bolt centre); the corresponding measurements on left and right should match within 1–2 mm; significant left-to-right differences indicate one knuckle has been deformed. Second, measure the brake caliper mounting face flatness with a precision straightedge across the face — gaps greater than 0.1 mm indicate the face has been deformed. Third, measure the wheel bearing bore diameter at multiple angular positions; a bore that is out of round by more than 0.05 mm indicates the bearing has spun and enlarged the bore. Confirmation of any of these conditions provides definitive evidence for knuckle replacement; without such confirmation, a chassis alignment specialist's measurement on a fixture is required to rule out subframe or strut tower damage that produces similar alignment symptoms. ok.parts supplies steering knuckles at wholesale MOQ from 0.18 USD per unit.
Should the wheel bearing always be replaced when the steering knuckle is replaced?
The wheel bearing should always be replaced as a new unit when the knuckle is replaced — the labour to install the bearing in the new knuckle is identical whether a new or used bearing is fitted, and the marginal cost of a new bearing is small relative to the value of avoiding a repeat knuckle disassembly within a short interval. Additionally, the press operation required to extract a serviceable bearing from the old knuckle frequently damages the bearing's outer race or seals during removal, meaning the extracted bearing is no longer reliable for reuse regardless of its apparent condition. The only scenario where bearing transfer from the old knuckle is appropriate is when the bearing is a recently fitted new part with very low mileage — in this case extraction and transfer is appropriate but requires careful press technique to avoid damage during removal.
How does the OEM-equivalent aftermarket unit compare to the genuine OEM part?
OEM-equivalent units in this catalogue replicate the current OEM design geometry and material specification. Quality is verified against OEM cross-reference data. When ordering in bulk, confirm with our team that the specification matches the latest OEM revision for your application.
Is white-label or custom packaging available for wholesale orders?
Yes. ok.parts works directly with the manufacturing facility and can accommodate neutral white-label packaging or fully branded packaging with your company logo, part numbers, and barcode. Minimum order quantities and lead times for custom packaging may differ from standard stock. Contact the team via the inquiry form to discuss your specific requirements.
Frequently Replaced Together
PartReason for Combined Replacement
Wheel Hub Bearing
OEM ref. varies by vehicle
Knuckle replacement provides the opportunity and the necessity to install a new wheel bearing simultaneously — the bearing must be pressed into the new knuckle's clean bore at any rate, making new bearing installation the natural choice over attempting to transfer the original bearing. A new bearing of known OEM specification fitted to a new knuckle's correct-tolerance bore provides the highest reliability outcome for the complete wheel assembly and eliminates any uncertainty about residual bearing wear from the prior service period.
Ball Joint
Lower ball joint — OEM ref. varies
The ball joint that engages the knuckle's tapered bore must be installed in a new knuckle and will require its taper to seat into a previously unstressed taper bore in the new casting; this presents the opportunity to install a new ball joint rather than transferring a used one. A new ball joint provides a known-new pivot for the new knuckle assembly; on press-in ball joints, the press operation to install the joint into the new knuckle is identical for new and used joints, making new joint installation the cost-effective choice during knuckle replacement.
Tie Rod End
OEM ref. varies by steering rack
The tie rod end engages the knuckle's steering arm taper bore and must be separated and reinstalled during knuckle replacement. A tie rod end at the wear stage where its replacement is being considered should be renewed simultaneously with the knuckle replacement — the tie rod separation labour is already expended, and replacing the tie rod end at the same operation eliminates a repeat alignment service within a short interval. Confirm tie rod end condition by inspecting for play after knuckle removal and replace if any movement is detectable.